So, the other day, Daniel Woods, who's currently residing in Innsbruck (kinda popular nowadays!), made the FA of American gangster, 8B+, at the Sundergrund wald in the Zillertal. I asked him to tell me a little bit about it.
The original line was called Camorra, but this exits left into this crack. The line I did continues straight up and slightly to the right adding in two extra really hard moves.
I did the boulder as a stand first but thought it should be started on the obvious sit, where the jug is. So the combination is an 8A+ intro boulder of 3 moves to a 2 move 8A+. The upper part consists of a huge deadpoint with the left hand to a small slopey crimper, then a one arm lock off to the slopey lip. All on a steep overhanging wall.
Photos can be found on Emi Moosburger's blog.
Daniel says, he'll stick around for one more month, and that he syked to go back to the Maltatal, where he did Klem Loskot's The power of goodbye, 8B, last week, and Switzerland, where he'll hook up with Nalle Hukkataival. If the conditions are right, Christian Core's Gioia at Varazze will be paid a visit.
Photo: Daniel Woods setting up for the big dyno on The power of goodbye, by Christof Glanzer.