According to a forum post over at UK Bouldering "Sam from Blackpool repeated Kaizan [sic] at Woodwell starting from the bottom of the ramp, I'v seen him doing the moves today and he was solid on them."
Apparently, what Sam did was an easier variation of the problem: "Samuel rang us last night n wanted me to clear this up a bit. In his words he did Kaizen the Gay way, about Fnt8a+. Nodder the original went off a block at the bottom that has now gone. So this alternate way is a damn site easier. Originally you had a foot lock of the block to get into the roof and then you were basically cutting loose hanging the crimps in the roof and slammin your foot on the ramp. The 'Gay Way' means you are essentially established with feet on ramp already."
According to another post, the original is still possible, and still unrepeated.
Photo: John Gaskins on "Kaizen", 8B+, Woodwell
( Read more | 3 comments, 28 Sep 2009
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