There's something rotten in the state of France...by Björn Pohl - UKC Dec/2008
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...the Haute-Savoie to be more precise. First it was Fred Rouhling's 8B+/C problem Soumission that was destroyed. Since it's on sandstone, it was easy for the perpetrator(s) to chisel and improve, making most of the holds better, then, a couple of months ago, and perhaps even worse, Romain Desgranges' Kaiser Sauzé, 8C+, a problem at Argentiere, he'd been working for years, only to see his dream crushed to pieces shortly after the first ascent.... After talking to a deeply troubled Fred Moix today, there's no doubt in my mind, this is no coincidence. Kaiser Sauzé was a great, classic style boulder problem. Bullet granite, tall and beautiful... Why?
Apparently, the whole thing is about envy. Fred Rouhling is not a born Haute-Savoiard (is that the right word?), plus he's strong. Romain is his friend... To some, these are good enough reasons to go smash a problem or two. To me, it's just so sad. What's wrong with these people?
Romain Desgranges on Kaiser Sauzé. Photo by Fred Moix