Unfinished business: Finished
by Björn Pohl - UKC Nov/2008
This news story has been read 432 times
Ty Landman was slightly annoyed yesterday. After having flashed the classic crimpy roof boulder La Soucoupe, originally 8B/+ but now 8A+, he fell off the last move of its neighbor/variation Shadowfax four times. Today he went back and finished his business. Signed Dave Graham 2001, this problem was originally given 8B+, but has since been downgraded. I'm beginning to ask myself; Were all these problems really overgraded, or are we in fact condensing the grades? I remember a few years back when La Soucoupe was actually considered solid 8B, Malc Smith was in Chironico and really, I mean REALLY, wanted to make the first flash of a confirmed 8B. He chose La Soucoupe and succeeded, he thought... until he met someone who knew the beta. As it turned out he had started one move into the problem (which is a very easy mistake to make as the start is far from obvious). Devastated he went back and made it from the correct start on his first attempt. By all likelihood, he would have flashed, but as it seems now, the solid 8B is only 8A+...
Photo showing Nalle Hukkataival on the problem. La Soucoupe finishes straight up, whereas Shadowfax finishes to the right.