VIDEO: Toru Nakajima in Cornwall
by Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC Jun/2010
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Toru Nakajima headpoints 29 Palms (E8 6c/7a) on BMC International Meet
© Kafoozalem, May 2010
Toru climbing and Keita belaying on Cain - BMC International Sea Cliff Climbing Meet 2010
© Harald, May 2010
On the recent BMC International meet in Cornwall, visiting Japanese climber Toru Nakajima made several impressive ascents.
Toru, the youngster who made headlines last year by ripping it up on the Peak gritstone (see UKC News) was again on good form, this time on the perfect golden granite of Cornwall.
As reported on the BMC Website, the top ticks from the international meet were:
- Morgawr (E6, 6c) Pat Littlejohn's tough test piece from 1996 saw it's second ascent by Czech Republic climber Jiri Sefl. He stormed through the crux unable to place much gear due to being pumped!
- The Absolution (E6, 6C) another bold Littlejohn route had it's third ascent by Jiri Sefl. Just shy of the on sight Jiri fell off on the top crux, then climbed the route free.
- 29 Palms (E8, 6c) Andy Long's masterpiece had a second ascent from top Japanese climber Toru Nakajima placing no protection in the peg holes. Toru also onsighted Tears of a Clown (E7, 6b) and soloed both Storms over Africa (E6, 6b) and Hell Hath No Fear (E7,6b) after trying both routes once on top rope.
- Many tough test pieces saw multiple onsights: Carmen (E6, 6b), Footless Madness (E6, 6b), Black Magic (E5, 6a), Darkinbad (E5, 6b), Liberator (E5, 6a), The West Face (E5, 6b), Demolition (E6 6a), Samson (E5, 6b), Baptisim of Fire (E6, 6b), Pinch the Egyptian (E6, 6c), Dog Town (E5, 6b) and Let The River Live (E6, 6b).
- Matteo Della Bordella from Italy made casual onsights of Wild at Heart (E6, 6b), Evil Eye (E5, 6b), Fun Curve Factory (E5, 6a) and The Lost Arrow (E5, 6b). Matteo narrowly missed the flash of Bridge of Sies (E7, 6b).
In this video from Mark Glaister, Toru solos the small but technical arete of Storms Over Africa at Cribba Head. The route is very close to a crack on the right, and Storms Over Africa was originally climbed with this peg offering some protection. It has since been straightened out - and it is the straight and protection-less version that Toru climbs here.
VIDEO: Toru - Storms Over Africa E6 6b
Warning - this video contains some swearing by concerned onlookers!
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