Ondra's Swizzy rampage (Updated: Adam comments)by Björn Pohl - UKC Jun/2010
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Adam Ondra doing Amulet, 8A, at Petrorhrad, by Vojtech Vrzba
Is Adam Ondra real, or is it all a trick?
I'm too old to believe in magic, but could he be using mirrors or something? The other possibility is of course that he's light years ahead of the pack. I guess he is.
Adam spent the first week of June at Chironico in Ticino and Magic Wood in the Averstal, and although conditions were far from good, it was wet and warm, he was unstoppable.
At Chironico, in one day, he did three 8B's and three 8A+'s, one of which was a flash.
At Magic Wood, in two days of climbing, he did three 8B+'s, one of which, Riverside, was a FA, plus a few problems in the 8A-8B range.
I asked Adam a couple of questions about it:
Very impressive what you did in Switzerland during the last week! It was very hot, I know, but did you have a look or perhaps even tried things like Practice of the wild, In search of time lost, Big paw or From dirt grows the flower? If so, what were your impressions?
I had wanted to try Practice of the Wild and In Search of Time Lost, but both of them were desperately wet. The whole Magic Wood was wet at the beginning of the week, so we moved to Chironico. I tried Big Paw the first day, early in the morning, coming quite close to sending it (I did the stand start Boogalagga only with two pads for the start, which makes it slightly easier to put your feet on the rock). The next day I got up 5:15 AM, but couldn't do the moves and climbed something different instead. After a restday, I came back again very early in the morning, but it was again desperate, even though the temperature was the same as the first day and I was well rested... Anyway it is a really nice problem and I would like to get back for it one day.
You repeat so many problems so fast. Does this make you want to put up some really hard ones of your own? Do you have any such projects? Maybe to go back to Switzerland in October/November when the temps are better?
Unfortunately I have different plans for October/November, it is still lead competition season. I would love to put up some problems of my own and I have proud lines in my country to be freed, so maybe this winter I will take a look at it.
Adam's Swizzy ticks:
Source: 8aCheck out the UKClimbing.com interview: ADAM ONDRA - The Exclusive Interview