Nina Caprez has switched from multi-pitch climbing on Sardinia, to single pitch climbing at Céüse. Some of the pitches here are mighty long though... and as she felt she was used to it, she decided to try The black bean, a 70m monster of an 8b+. Unfortunately it started raining after her first try on it, and she had to wait.
After a few days she returned and found it wet... so, while it was drying she did Le chirurgien du crepuscule, a really hard 8b and not exactly a boulder problem either, instead. She succeeded on her 5th try and what made it even better was that her boyfriend, Cedric Lachat, sent an old project of his, Ba, ba, black sheep, ~8c+, on the same day. Celebrations were in order!
But like they say, "good wine only makes you stronger", and the very next day Nina climbed The black bean on her 4th try in total. Full story on her blog.
Nina Caprez on Le chirurgien du crepuscule
Björn Pohl - UKC, Jun 2010
© Nina Caprez