Hansjörg Auer, accompanied by Babsi Zangerl, has made the second ascent of Alexander Huber's ten pitch Pan Aroma, ~8c, on the Cima Oeste de Lavaredo in the Italian Dolomites. Pan Aroma shares the first five pitches with Bellavista, ~8b+, another Huber first, but then goes right to gain a massive roof. By massive I mean MASSIVE, as in 40+ metres.
Hansjörg, who worked the route for three days prior to the redpoint, succeeded in climbing all the pitches first try without falls on the fourth, commenting that the route is truely impressive, involving climbing in a position difficult to imagine. The hardest single pitch is the short powerful one through he roof, but in order to reach it you must first climb an 8b+ which is its total opposite, resistance, making it difficult to combine the two when redpointing the whole thing.
Hansjörg is, and this shouldn't come as a surprise, no stranger to difficult multi-pitches. Last year he freed Vogelfrei, ~8b+, on the Schüsselkarspitze and in 2007 he did the 900m 33 pitch slab nightmare The Fish, 7b+, on The Marmolada, free solo.
Earlier this year, fighting terrible conditions, he and Michael Meisl made the FA of Waiting for Godot, a 750m 7b on the East Face of the Central Tower on The Towers of Paine, Patagonia.
It was really impressive and a cool adventure. He tried this roof three times before, and on the 4th day he did all the pitches on the first try. For me it was the first alpine style multi-pitch. The last two pitches were really wet and quite scary to climb with really long run-outs, but that's no problem for Hansjörg... He climbed very concentrated, it's really cool how he climbs on alpine stuff. A really good head! And it was good fun as well... He said "you can give me a lot of rope, it's ok when I fall.". He was never afraid to fall. :-)
Hansjörg Auer hanging around on Pan Aroma, 8c
© Barbara Zangerl