Things that went down and things that didn't...yetby Björn Pohl - UKC Aug/2010
This news story has been read 3,981 times
Kairn, who's talked to Belgian boulderer, Olivier Mignon, has the lowdown on the major sends at Magic Wood this summer.
Zach Lerner made the 3rd ascent, after Daniel Woods and Dai Koyamada, of Remembrance of things past, 8B+, in the darkness cave.
In the same cave Olivier Mignon made the 2nd ascent of Anthony Gullsten's recently put up Dark sakai, 8B. He also did One summer in paradise, 8B (the longer version of Pura vida). Sean McColl did the same, dispatching it second go. It should be noted that he rested a lot between the two tries. Two years to be precise.
Russian, Rustam Gelmanov, who was pulling on some real rock for a change, repeated New base line, 8B+.and finally
Nacho Sanchez, a Spaniard residing in the UK, did The never ending story, 8B+.
OK, now over to what could very possibly happen today a.k.a the "not yet news"
Paul Robinson's Rocklands trip is almost over. With only two days of climbing left, he's frustratingly close to making the 2nd ascent of Fred Nicole's Monkey wedding, 8C, having fallen with his fingertips in the jug marking the end of the difficult climbing several times. "How can a boulderer of Paul's caliber fall with his fingers in a jug?", you may ask.
Well, it is this difficult cross into a slot jug very hard to get fingers inside..
Regardless of if he succeeds or not, he'll arrive at his new home in Innsbruck 4 September, very psyched to get back to European rock again.
Meanwhile at Deverland/Dévérsé in southern France, the same McColl as above, is super close on PuntX, ~9a, if he hasn't done it already that is...
Iain Small has added a left hand finish to his existing route of at Ratho Quarry, Edinburgh. The exisiting line is no... Read more
Seb Bouin has made the first ascent of A muerte bilou in the Ramirole sector in the Verdon Gorge. He suggests... Read more
Toshi Takeuchi has had a good time in Magic Wood/Averstal, Switzerland, where he spent a few weeks and repeated several hard... Read more
Megan Mascarenas, 18, has repeated The Riverbed, ~8B, at Magic Wood/Averstal, Switzerland. This was the second female ascent... Read more