'Ironman' Adrian Baxter - F8cby Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC Aug/2010
This news story has been read 8,427 times
Adrian Baxter has redpointed the stunning sport route of Ironman (F8c) in Rodellar in the Huesca province of Aragon, Spain.
Adrian is one of the UK's top sport climbers, who operates mainly under the radar, but consistently puts in impressive performances time and again.
Commenting on his recent successful redpoint, Adrian said:
"I've been having a total blast over the last two months climbing in Spain and Ironman was really the culmination of the trip for me. Although I am on a nine month sabbatical from work and will be heading to Yosemite and Central and South America for 6 months now - I decided to dedicate the last 2 months to sport climbing in northern Spain and have really surprised myself ticking a load of routes up to 8b+ on quickly red-point and on-sighting up to a few 8's up to 8a+ in a day."
Adrian wasn't sure this was his trip for F8c, as he hadn't climbed at that grade before:
"I actually thought I wouldn't get an 8c ticked this trip as it has been dogged by such weird extremes of weather - it snowed twice, we experienced almost tropical thunderstorms, meaning 3 x 8c's I was trying were soaked for up to a week at a time, it reached 38 degrees . . . and I also had to return home for a month but decided to return for a week to get one done, and am so pleased that I made the effort!"
Big moves on big holds follow the midheight ledge, but Adrian found the top headwall to hold the most difficulty:
"Here you find a technical sequence on undercuts which can easily be blown as you have to make 6 foot movements to make 2 hand-movements followed by 4 more moves on slopers for hands and feet to get into a position to clip the chain; which you have level with your face for what seems like an eternity!
It's only here why you appreciate why this route is called Ironman because it really does not give up until you clip the chain - after a knee-bar two moves into the 8c, there's nowhere to get a rest to truly get anything back because it is too steep. It's really a timing game - knowing how to pace your climbing and not letting any individual move take up too much energy that you'll need higher up on the crucial technical section.
I reached the crux - 2 metres from the chain on my first red-point after a day of work and naively thought I'd get it next go . . . but once again, that's why its called Ironman . . . those last 2 / 3 metres never ever let up and are definitely the hardest part on the route especially after climbing 38 metres to get there.
I red-pointed the route as it was starting to go dark on my last possible red-point on my final evening in Rodellar - it was an emotional experience!
Thanks must go to Harry Pennells for such incredible support belaying over the time I spent on it and to Rob Gibson who offered to take some shots at 6.30 am the next morning before I left Spain helped by Ramon Marin!
Big thanks to Adrian, Steve McClure and Pete O'Donovan for their help with this report, and to Rob Gibson for the photograph.
This week's Friday Night Video will please both climbers and mountain bikers. It's a quirky fusion of both activities which will... Read more
Alex Megos has been to Margalef, Spain, where he did Demencia senil, 9a+, second and a half go*, and onsighted Victimes del... Read more
After the IFSC presented their bid in August this year, sport climbing has today been proposed as an additional event for... Read more
Sport Climbing was one of eight sports that addressed Tokyo's 2020 Olympic Games Additional Events Program Panel in... Read more