Last month, Magnus Midtboe repeated Dani Andrada's Ali-Hulk sit start extension, and joined the select group of climbers who've climbed 9b.
Now, he has joined an even more exclusive group of climbers who've climbed both 9b route and 8C boulder. In fact, come to think of it, I believe it's not even a group really, but a pair. Chris Sharma and Magnus.
Last try, last minute today I did the hardest problem of my life, together with and captured by Made Production. I have been working on this problem every time I've been in Bergen the last few years. I did Gjeddehenget before it broke, when it was 8B/8B+, though that wasn't the very sit start. Today at the very last minute I did the hardest problem of my life. Two and a half hours before my flight back to Oslo i made it! The sit start adds four moves to the boulder and makes it into a totally different boulder - Four of the hardest and definitely most amazing moves I have ever done!
I propose 8C for this boulder, even though I have never done an established 8B+ before. This suits me better than any other Boulder. Mostly because of its length - 24 moves. The length also makes it less specific - it's not all about one or two moves.
More info and photos on Magnus' Website
Magnus is the one to the right
UKC News, Aug 2010
© Magnus Midtboe