8C FA by Midtboeby Björn Pohl - UKC Sep/2010
This news story has been read 5,677 times
Last month, Magnus Midtboe repeated Dani Andrada's Ali-Hulk sit start extension, and joined the select group of climbers who've climbed 9b.
Now, he has joined an even more exclusive group of climbers who've climbed both 9b route and 8C boulder. In fact, come to think of it, I believe it's not even a group really, but a pair. Chris Sharma and Magnus.
Last try, last minute today I did the hardest problem of my life, together with and captured by Made Production. I have been working on this problem every time I've been in Bergen the last few years. I did Gjeddehenget before it broke, when it was 8B/8B+, though that wasn't the very sit start. Today at the very last minute I did the hardest problem of my life. Two and a half hours before my flight back to Oslo i made it! The sit start adds four moves to the boulder and makes it into a totally different boulder - Four of the hardest and definitely most amazing moves I have ever done!
I propose 8C for this boulder, even though I have never done an established 8B+ before. This suits me better than any other Boulder. Mostly because of its length - 24 moves. The length also makes it less specific - it's not all about one or two moves.
More info and photos on Magnus' Website
Tonight's Friday Night Video from UKC user David Linnett is a short film about a trip to the Isle of Wight to climb one of the... Read more
An unseasonably snowy and wet start to the Alpine summer gave the team at this year's Arc'teryx Academy some challenging... Read more
Dave Graham has repeated Jimmy Webb's Delirium, ~8C, at Mount Evans, Colorado. Delirium starts like The Wheel... Read more
Kendal-based climber Jon Freeman has redpointed his first 8c+, Progress at Kilnsey. First climbed by Jerry Moffatt at... Read more