NEWS LINK: Eiger Direttissima free climbedby Lindsay Griffin - BMC Oct/2010
This news story has been read 8,215 times
Continuing their quest to free the great classics of the Eiger, Robert Jasper and Roger Schaeli have more or less followed the John Harlin Route, the original direttissima on the North Face, at M8- and 7a.
The German-Swiss pair spent three days in late September climbing the route as far as the Spider high on the face.
To this point the rock is generally considered to be quite good, but above, where it moves up right to a smaller ice patch named the Fly and then through the final steep barrier to gain the summit icefield, it is quite loose, with difficulties originally graded V+ and A1.
Jasper and Schaeli chose to avoid this and take a faster exit via the top section of the classic 1938 Route, reaching the top late in the evening...
The GB Climbing team management have announced the Climbing Teams in Junior Lead and Boulder and Senior Lead and Boulder... Read more
La Sportiva Legends Only 2015 at Klättercentret in Stockholm was Slovenian Janja Garnbret's definite breakthrough on the... Read more
Having previously held the Eiger Speed Record in 2007 and 2008, yesterday Ueli Steck beat Dani Arnold's 2011 time of 2... Read more
Roger Schäli (Switzerland), Robert Jasper (Germany) and Simon Gietl (Italy) have established a difficult and serious new... Read more
Robbie Phillips - he's young, he's brash, he's bold and he's been over in the Alps this summer climbing some... Read more