NEWS LINK: Eiger Direttissima free climbedby Lindsay Griffin - BMC Oct/2010
This news story has been read 8,181 times
Continuing their quest to free the great classics of the Eiger, Robert Jasper and Roger Schaeli have more or less followed the John Harlin Route, the original direttissima on the North Face, at M8- and 7a.
The German-Swiss pair spent three days in late September climbing the route as far as the Spider high on the face.
To this point the rock is generally considered to be quite good, but above, where it moves up right to a smaller ice patch named the Fly and then through the final steep barrier to gain the summit icefield, it is quite loose, with difficulties originally graded V+ and A1.
Jasper and Schaeli chose to avoid this and take a faster exit via the top section of the classic 1938 Route, reaching the top late in the evening...
This week's Friday Nighter is from . Here's what they say: "This harrowing expedition pushed a group of... Read more
Late in the season, when temperature and humidity perhaps shouldn't really allow it, Dave Graham has made the second... Read more
Hot on Alex Megos' heels, Jakob Schubert has made the 3rd ascent of Adam Ondra's Thor's hammer, 9a+, in the Flatanger... Read more
A team of British Paraclimbers have successfully tackled the West Flank Route to the summit of The Eiger in Switzerland, the goal... Read more
Swiss climber Dani Arnold has set a new speed record on the North Face of the Matterhorn with a time of 1 hour and 46 minutes,... Read more