Three 8C repeats in Chironico

by Björn Pohl - UKC Nov/2010
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The conditions must be perfect in Chironico right now, nothing good on TV or anything, because two 8C's have been repeated, one of which twice! Micky Page, a low key British boulderer who seems to have plenty of time for bouldering trips, made the (probably)4th ascent of Dave Graham's From dirt grows the flowers, while Adam Ondra, on a flying visit on his way to Italy, snatched the 3rd ascent of Big Paw, another problem signed Graham.

By climbing his first 8C, Adam joins the very few who have done both 9b route (Golpe de Estado) and 8C boulder. The other two members in this very exclusive club are of course Chris Sharma (multiple 9b's and two 8C's) and Magnus Midtboe ("Ali Hulk sit start extension" and "Blood redemption", both done earlier this autumn).

Later the same day, Paul Robinson did the 4th ascent of Big Paw after three days of work. According to 27 crags he does not agree with the 8C grade and believes it to be solid 8B+. When asked for his reasoning, he said that he compared it to his most recent 8C sends, Monkey Wedding (Rocklands, South Africa) and Ill Trill (Magic wood, Switzerland), and both felt significantly harder. Paul thinks of Big Paw as a 7C+ into Boogalaga, 8B.

photo
Paul Robinson on Big Paw
Björn Pohl - UKC, Nov 2010
© Ikuko Serata

Source: 27 crags

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