Donald King and Andy Nelson climb Satyr IX,9 FWAby Mike Pescod Dec/2010
This news story has been read 9,170 times
Donald King and myself - Mike Pescod had a look at the line back in November and Andy climbed the first pitch with Donald on Tuesday of last week. This turned out to be a very bold and hard lead after which the team decided to carry on up Central Buttress so they did not get stuck out in the dark. On it's own this pitch is probably around IX,8 with several sections of long run-outs and poor protection which they were not keen to repeat!
Yesterday, Donald led up Central Grooves/Buttress to the top of the first pitch of Satyr, Andy led the link pitch before Donald went for the pinnacle flake above. This was quite strenuous and awkward resulting in Donald being unable to retrieve his ice axe at one point. He continued to the top of the flake with one axe and cold fingers!
Andy then climbed the mantelshelf (with one fall) and the groove above to easier ground. All in all there are three very hard pitches in the 100m route and the team thinks it might be around IX,9. Donald says "it's certainly much harder than Unicorn" which he did last spring!
Thanks go to Mike Pescod for this report.
Read other news and conditions reports on the Abacus Mountaineering Website
Top British climbers Greg Boswell and Nick Bullock have been hitting social media feeds and mainstream news headlines... Read more
In late October, Niccolò Ceria repeated Voyager sit start, ~8B+, at Burbage North. Now, there is a... Read more
The winter season is fast approaching and the annual sharpening of tools is about to begin. To get you ready for some epic winter... Read more
Saturday 19 September was one of 2015's biggest gatherings of young and disabled Scottish climbers, as EICA: Ratho hosted the... Read more