Donald King and myself - Mike Pescod had a look at the line back in November and Andy climbed the first pitch with Donald on Tuesday of last week. This turned out to be a very bold and hard lead after which the team decided to carry on up Central Buttress so they did not get stuck out in the dark. On it's own this pitch is probably around IX,8 with several sections of long run-outs and poor protection which they were not keen to repeat!
Yesterday, Donald led up Central Grooves/Buttress to the top of the first pitch of Satyr, Andy led the link pitch before Donald went for the pinnacle flake above. This was quite strenuous and awkward resulting in Donald being unable to retrieve his ice axe at one point. He continued to the top of the flake with one axe and cold fingers!
Andy then climbed the mantelshelf (with one fall) and the groove above to easier ground. All in all there are three very hard pitches in the 100m route and the team thinks it might be around IX,9. Donald says "it's certainly much harder than Unicorn" which he did last spring!
Thanks go to Mike Pescod for this report.
Read other news and conditions reports on the Abacus Mountaineering Website
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