9a FA by Pringle in Chinaby Björn Pohl - UKC Dec/2010
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Ethan Pringle has made the FA of Spicy dumpling an open project bolted by Chris Sharma at Yangshuo, China. As a project, it was known as "The dumpling all all evil" due to its similarity in style to the Virgin River Gorge test-piece "The route of all evil", 8c+.
On his blog, Ethan says that "Even though it only took me three days, I think it's in the 9a range, judging by how much harder it is than the other routes on the cliff and how freakin' hard it felt when I first tried it. I think the reason I was able to do it so fast is that it has a really bouldery crux at about half height, then the upper cruxes are more technical and fingery and more on your feet with a decent rest in between. Once I was able to bust through the bottom crux, which came as a bit of a pleasant surprise, I only fell once on the last crux when a thumb catch broke. I'd say the climbing on the route is my style- lots of big moves between pinches and incut crimps, and I like the angle a lot."
At 9a, this route should be the first of this grade in China.
Full story and more of Lee Cujes' photos on Ethan's blog.