9a FA by Pringle in Chinaby Björn Pohl - UKC Dec/2010
This news story has been read 5,916 times
Ethan Pringle has made the FA of Spicy dumpling an open project bolted by Chris Sharma at Yangshuo, China. As a project, it was known as "The dumpling all all evil" due to its similarity in style to the Virgin River Gorge test-piece "The route of all evil", 8c+.
On his blog, Ethan says that "Even though it only took me three days, I think it's in the 9a range, judging by how much harder it is than the other routes on the cliff and how freakin' hard it felt when I first tried it. I think the reason I was able to do it so fast is that it has a really bouldery crux at about half height, then the upper cruxes are more technical and fingery and more on your feet with a decent rest in between. Once I was able to bust through the bottom crux, which came as a bit of a pleasant surprise, I only fell once on the last crux when a thumb catch broke. I'd say the climbing on the route is my style- lots of big moves between pinches and incut crimps, and I like the angle a lot."
At 9a, this route should be the first of this grade in China.
Full story and more of Lee Cujes' photos on Ethan's blog.
An unseasonably snowy and wet start to the Alpine summer gave the team at this year's Arc'teryx Academy some challenging... Read more
Dave MacLeod has made the third ascent of Dave Birkett's Return of the King E9 6c on Scafell in the Lake District. Adam... Read more
Four athletes from the GB Paraclimbing Team won medals in the IFSC World Paraclimbing Cup in Campitello di Fassa, Italy last... Read more