9a FA by Pringle in Chinaby Björn Pohl - UKC Dec/2010
This news story has been read 5,845 times
Ethan Pringle has made the FA of Spicy dumpling an open project bolted by Chris Sharma at Yangshuo, China. As a project, it was known as "The dumpling all all evil" due to its similarity in style to the Virgin River Gorge test-piece "The route of all evil", 8c+.
On his blog, Ethan says that "Even though it only took me three days, I think it's in the 9a range, judging by how much harder it is than the other routes on the cliff and how freakin' hard it felt when I first tried it. I think the reason I was able to do it so fast is that it has a really bouldery crux at about half height, then the upper cruxes are more technical and fingery and more on your feet with a decent rest in between. Once I was able to bust through the bottom crux, which came as a bit of a pleasant surprise, I only fell once on the last crux when a thumb catch broke. I'd say the climbing on the route is my style- lots of big moves between pinches and incut crimps, and I like the angle a lot."
At 9a, this route should be the first of this grade in China.
Full story and more of Lee Cujes' photos on Ethan's blog.
As reported earlier this week, Ned Feehally made the coveted second repeat of Voyager Sit Start 8B+ at Burbage North (UKC... Read more
Kevin Lopata has repeated Jan Hojer's Jour de chasse, ~8C, at Recloses, Fontainebleau. This was the 6th ascent... Read more