North Wales Winter - New Routes

by Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC Dec/2010
This news story has been read 7,668 times

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+Terminator on Craig Ddu - Llanberis Pass, 184 kb
Terminator on Craig Ddu - Llanberis Pass
UKC News, Dec 2010
© Jack Geldard

photo
Nick Bullock on the tricky first section of Old Nick VI 6, Kitchen Cliffs, Ogwen
UKC News, Dec 2010
© Ray Wood
There may have been some disappointed faces on Christmas morning in North Wales, as it seems that instead of Christmas shopping, everyone was out on the cliffs making the most of the winter conditions.

New routes have been put up all over the place by several teams. The Black Ladders has as ever been a fruitful venue, with new mixed lines being picked like plums.

Some of the highlights on The Ladders have been Freyberg's Diversion (VI,7) from Adam Long and Ben Bransby, Yr Arianrhod (VII,6/7) from Owen Hayward and Martin Land and Trench Warfare (VII,6) from Keith Ball and Chris Parkin.

Full details of all these routes are on the V12 News Blog.

Tim Neill and Nick Bullock have been extremely active in the area too, making first ascents and rare repeats on a variety of cliffs.

First ascents included Old Nick (VI,6), Falling Angel (VII,7) on the Devil's Kitchen Cliffs, Ogwen and an epic sounding 6 pitch outing - Central Route (VII,7) on Llech Ddu.

Bullock, seconded by Tim Neill and Ray Wood, also made what is thought to be the second ascent of Terminator on the virtually road-side crag of Craig Ddu, Llanberis Pass. This 1985 Stevie Haston horror is a steep and thin ice climb (see crag shot above).

More details and photos by Ray Wood are on the DMM Website: here and here.


North Wales Classics
North Wales Classics (Apr 2010)  Book

A pocket-sized 'POKKETZ' guide to the best routes in the North Wales Mountains. It also includes Welsh Winter - a guide to the best winter routes in North Wales.
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