UKC

Window of Opportunity - Removable BoltsVideo

© Brian Solano - BS Productions
photo
Chris Lindner on Window of Opportunity
© Brian Solano - BS Productions

American climber Chris Lindner made the first ascent of his route Window of Opportunity back in 2007. The sport climb is about as coastal as it gets, with waves lapping at the base of the steep prow.

What makes this route very interesting is the removable bolts that Chris used to protect the climb.

In an interview on Planet Mountain, Chris said:

"Several reasons made me decide to use these bolts: first and foremost, this particular climb sits right next to the ocean which creates highly corrosive conditions. Plus, it's on the border of California and Oregon which by itself is one of the moistest climates in America. These two factors alone made me think that any type of permanent anchor I'd use would have a limited life span due to corrosion. I didn't want to be responsible for insecure equipment 10 years in the future when in my mind, this route was worthy of lasting hundreds of years. Another reason was relations with the local native Indian tribe who worship further north along the beach. Although there isn't any specific climbing closures, the Indians have reportedly had a history of distaste for climbers in the past, so I didn't want to add fuel to the fire with visible bolts."

VIDEO: Chris Lindner on Window of Opportunity

The clip is from the climbing film - Spray by BS Productions.

 


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4 Feb, 2011
They will be the rubber coated expansion bolts, look like normal expansion bolts but the expanding bit is rubber not mettle, meaning it can be un-tightened.
4 Feb, 2011
Do you really, truly not know how to spell "metal"? OP: Are there not some expansion bolts where unscrewing the head also allows the split piece to close again and the bolt to come out?
4 Feb, 2011
Never mind the bolt stuff - great vid - how hard does that top crux look from the crack?!!!!! E
4 Feb, 2011
But they found the drilling to be tasteful, right?
4 Feb, 2011
I was on a spiritual search for something more and wanted to respect the environment.... So I drove my Humvee along the coast. Lol
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