VIDEO: Window of Opportunity - Removable Boltsby Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC Feb/2011
This news story has been read 12,033 times
American climber Chris Lindner made the first ascent of his route Window of Opportunity back in 2007. The sport climb is about as coastal as it gets, with waves lapping at the base of the steep prow.
What makes this route very interesting is the removable bolts that Chris used to protect the climb.
In an interview on Planet Mountain, Chris said:
"Several reasons made me decide to use these bolts: first and foremost, this particular climb sits right next to the ocean which creates highly corrosive conditions. Plus, it's on the border of California and Oregon which by itself is one of the moistest climates in America. These two factors alone made me think that any type of permanent anchor I'd use would have a limited life span due to corrosion. I didn't want to be responsible for insecure equipment 10 years in the future when in my mind, this route was worthy of lasting hundreds of years. Another reason was relations with the local native Indian tribe who worship further north along the beach. Although there isn't any specific climbing closures, the Indians have reportedly had a history of distaste for climbers in the past, so I didn't want to add fuel to the fire with visible bolts."
The clip is from the climbing film - Spray by BS Productions.
We recently reported that "WideBoy" Tom Randall had climbed a new line on Ilam Rock... Read more
This brilliant video tells the story of Dai Koyamada's first ascent of s. Kawaki no Umi, ~8B+/C, at Minamata,... Read more