Chris Davies Climbs Major New Problem in North Walesby Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC Feb/2011
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Chris Davies climbing My Own Private Idaho, Crafnant, North Wales
UKC News, Feb 2011
© Chris Davies Collection Chris Davies has added a major addition to the Welsh bouldering circuit with a new line on the Wonder-wall Block in the Crafnant meteor cluster, Crafnant valley, North Wales.
The as yet ungraded problem, now named My Own Private Idaho, is "potentially the hardest thing that I have climbed so far" according to Chris.
He described the problem:
"Private Idaho is a real boulder problem, consisting of two majorly hard moves and a steel tension foot manoeuvre to a glorious arete top out, shick-a-ding. It took around three months of effort, visiting a session a week (apart from zero access due to snow for a couple of those), along with lat-pulls, wood and plastic. A bit of a juggle with three kids and a manic job, and the problem was sent. In my opinion, one of the best 'Bloc' boulder problems in the UK. Stunning and very happy!"
As for the grade:
"I've not graded this as yet, as I have no idea. It'll be great to get this repeated or at least tried to gauge difficulty. Alastair Lee is filming this for a new film, it's a great area."
Chris Davies has climbed many hard boulder first ascents in North Wales, and if this is his hardest addition, it is safe to expect the grade to weigh in at quite a hefty level.
The name, we assume, comes from the 1991 film My Own Private Idaho, starring Keanu Reeves and River Phoenix, an excellent portrayal of two young gay 'hustlers'. Trailer below.
Chris Davies is sponsored by Boreal