The Swarm direct by Nalle Hukkataivalby Björn Pohl - UKC Feb/2011
This news story has been read 6,587 times
Nalle Hukkataival has made the first ascent of The Swarm direct at the Secrets of the Beehaive Area, Buttermilks, Bishop.
The original problem goes up a few moves via hard crimpy pulls and a to a big move to a gaston to gain a flake line that goes right to top out on a slightly easier problem first done by UKC's own Mick Ryan.
However a flake line, which is clearly visible in the first video below, continues above the initial pulls and was so obvious, but apparently people thought the flakes may snap if pulled on - obviously they didn't.
The strong Finn has also made impressive ground up ascents of a couple of mega highballs, Jason Kehl's Evilution, 8A+ (E8?) and Matt Wilder's This side of paradise, 7C+.
Last year we totally surprised ourselves - we ran a footless comp and somehow it worked. It actually worked so well that we felt... Read more
British climber and alpinist Tom Ballard has made the first ascent of what appears to be the hardest dry-tool line to... Read more
Whether the adrenaline surge he received when meeting a big Brown snake gave him the extra boost required we'll never know,... Read more
Nalle Hukkataival has made the first ascent of yet another ~8B+ in Rocklands, South Africa. This one he calls Mind games, and... Read more