Doug Scott to receive award at Piolets d'Or 2011by Jack Geldard & Piolets d'Or Feb/2011
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The Piolets d'Or are prestigious mountaineering awards that, although troubled in recent years (UKC 2008 News), have now reinvented themselves and are again a hugely popular event.
Doug Scott follows the famous mountaineers Walter Bonatti (2009) and Reinhold Messner (2010) in receiving this lifetime award.
Climber and explorer, the first Englishman to climb Everest in 1975 with a remarkable first ascent of the South West Face, Doug Scott was one of the pioneers of alpine style climbing in the Greater Ranges. Author of 45 expeditions to the highest mountains in the world, he has reached the summit of 40 peaks - from the Hindu Kush to Baffin Island, and has climbed numerous routes across the Alps and in Yosemite.
After his 1975 ascent of Everest with Dougal Haston, the pair opened a 2800m route on Denali the following year. In 1977 Scott and Bonington climbed the infamous Ogre (Baintha Brakk) 7285m, with Doug having to descend on all fours after breaking both ankles. The ascent of Kangchenjunga 8585m with Joe Tasker, Peter Boardman & Georges Bettem- bourg in 1979, was an incredible feat and set new standards by climbing to such high altitude without the use of oxygen on a new route, and for being carried out in semi alpine-style. Expeditions to Kusum Kanguru and then the North Face of Nuptse with Alan Rouse, Brian Hall & Georges Bettembourg were completed in the same year. In 1982 Shishapangma was the chosen peak, with a new route in alpine style with Alex McIntyre and Roger Baxter-Jones. With several expeditions to K2, and to Makalu, Doug has always pushed alpine style climbing to the limits of possibility. The route put up by Doug, Rick White, Georges Bettembourg & Greg Child on Shivling in 1981 is still recognised as one of the most accomplished and audacious in the world. It is legendary for its difficulty, beauty, and for the style it was climbed in.
Doug has been working with communities in Nepal since 1989, setting up his charity Community Action Nepal patroned by Chris Bonington. The charity carries out various projects supporting health, education and local economy in Nepal. Doug Scott has received various honours including a CBE (Commander of the British Empire) and the Gold Medal of the Royal Geographical Society.