Calum Muskett Climbs Rare Lichen - E9by Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC Mar/2011
This news story has been read 10,377 times
In a report on the DMM website Muskett commented:
"The ideal preparation for this climb was sitting at school all day being bored witless doing dull course work for English, History and PE. Escaping my studies yesterday I approached the route with no expectations having briefly had a go at unsuccessfully top roping it last year. Managing to get up it cleanly I was super keen to get back on it while it was still fresh in my mind and chalked up."
The route, a tall arete, is protected by several small micro-wires and was first climbed by Leo Houlding. It breaks down in to two distinct sections, the lower half of the arete being climbed on the left side (shared with Gribin Wall Climb - E9) before a move to the right side of the arete, just under a small overlap gains the slappy upper half.
The route is a balancy and technical F7c to top rope, with no desperate crux moves, but is bold and has generally poor protection.
Calum Muskett is sponsored by DMM
This week's Friday Night Video will please both climbers and mountain bikers. It's a quirky fusion of both activities which will... Read more
Alex Megos has been to Margalef, Spain, where he did Demencia senil, 9a+, second and a half go*, and onsighted Victimes del... Read more
Calum Muskett has had a proactive few months seeking out new routes in North Wales, adding E7 6b to this week,... Read more
Ed Booth and Angus Kille both made an ascent of Leo Houlding's E9 6c on 28th September. Rare Lichen is a... Read more