Calum Muskett Climbs Rare Lichen - E9

by Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC Mar/2011
This news story has been read 9,980 times
17 year old Calum Muskett has climbed the bold arete of Rare Lichen on Clogwyn y Tarw (Gribin Facet), Ogwen, North Wales.

+Clogwyn y Tarw (Gribin Facet), 214 kbClogwyn y Tarw (Gribin Facet)
Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor, Mar 2011
© Jack Geldard

In a report on the DMM website Muskett commented:

"The ideal preparation for this climb was sitting at school all day being bored witless doing dull course work for English, History and PE. Escaping my studies yesterday I approached the route with no expectations having briefly had a go at unsuccessfully top roping it last year. Managing to get up it cleanly I was super keen to get back on it while it was still fresh in my mind and chalked up."

+Clogwyn y Tarw (Gribin Facet) showing the line of Rare Lichen - E9, 197 kbClogwyn y Tarw (Gribin Facet) showing the line of Rare Lichen - E9
© Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor, Mar 2011

The route, a tall arete, is protected by several small micro-wires and was first climbed by Leo Houlding. It breaks down in to two distinct sections, the lower half of the arete being climbed on the left side (shared with Gribin Wall Climb - E9) before a move to the right side of the arete, just under a small overlap gains the slappy upper half.

The route is a balancy and technical F7c to top rope, with no desperate crux moves, but is bold and has generally poor protection.


Calum Muskett is sponsored by DMM

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