Calum Muskett Climbs Rare Lichen - E9by Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC Mar/2011
This news story has been read 10,509 times
In a report on the DMM website Muskett commented:
"The ideal preparation for this climb was sitting at school all day being bored witless doing dull course work for English, History and PE. Escaping my studies yesterday I approached the route with no expectations having briefly had a go at unsuccessfully top roping it last year. Managing to get up it cleanly I was super keen to get back on it while it was still fresh in my mind and chalked up."
The route, a tall arete, is protected by several small micro-wires and was first climbed by Leo Houlding. It breaks down in to two distinct sections, the lower half of the arete being climbed on the left side (shared with Gribin Wall Climb - E9) before a move to the right side of the arete, just under a small overlap gains the slappy upper half.
The route is a balancy and technical F7c to top rope, with no desperate crux moves, but is bold and has generally poor protection.
Calum Muskett is sponsored by DMM
17 year-old William Bosi from Edinburgh has become the youngest Brit to climb 9a with an astonishingly quick redpoint of... Read more
Dave MacLeod has repeated Chris Sharma's Practice of the wild, ~8C, at Magic Wood/Averstal. This was the 37 year old's first of... Read more
James McHaffie has added a new E9 6c - House of Talons - to Dinas Cromlech in the Llanberis Pass. The fact that a... Read more
Calum Muskett has had a proactive few months seeking out new routes in North Wales, adding Ginger Ninja E7 6b to Craig y... Read more
Ed Booth and Angus Kille both made an ascent of Leo Houlding's Rare Lichen E9 6c on 28th September. Rare Lichen... Read more