9b and 8c+ onsight by Ondra (yet again) [UPDATE]by Björn Pohl - UKC Mar/2011
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Adam Ondra onsighting the Chris Sharma route 'Mind Control' 8c+ at Oliana, Spain
Björn Pohl - UKC, Mar 2011
© Vojtech Vrzba
Again Adam Ondra delivers. This weekend at Oliana, he first did the first ascent of what used to be Chris Sharma's Chaxi Raxi project (F9b) and then onsighted Blanquita, F8c+, at the same crag.
I had the opportunity to talk to Chris about the route the other day. He describes it as very bouldery. Hard sections with really good rests between them. It can be divided into two parts, a short 9a or so, a no-hands-rest where you can recover 100%, and then a hard 9a or perhaps 9a+.
In an interview on Planet mountain, Adam describes it like this:"Well, it's circa 40m high with the crux after the second bolt, a difficult section which would be about Fb8B+ boulder. This is then followed by circa 9a/9a+ climbing, with some good rests.".
So, what's next?
Here's what the man himself has to say about the route:
It is not the best line of Oliana, but nevertheless it is impressive and my hardest route so far.I would not like to comment Chilam, since I am bit awkward about he fuzz that everone is talking about a thing that has not even started, I can only say that I am looking forward to it as well.