Dan Varian Climbs Dandelion Mind (Font 8B+)by Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC Apr/2011
This news story has been read 10,870 times
Dan's new line is called Dandelion Mind, and he has suggested a grade of around Font 8B+.
Dan commented on his blog:
"I have been secretly hammering a project into submission (metaphorically not literally) for the last 2 months..ish. I've gone from finding the crag, to noticing a possible line, to holding the positions, to doing the moves, to doing the problem, which is now called Dandelion Mind."
The 'new' crag has been nicknamed Badger Cove and is a small and steep limestone crag in the Peak District.
As with all first ascents, grades are only a stab in the dark, but Dandelion Mind is certainly hard:
"Ned (Beta Destroyer) Feehally found some slightly easier beta for the last move which was the secret to success (that and perfect conditions and the fact that I felt well light) but this has certainly dropped the problem from mid-high 8B+ (the last attempt in the video shows me getting painfully close this way) to low 8B+ possibly even 8B." explained Dan on his blog.
The video below shows the first ascent, and then for those that are interested in the long process involved in climbing a problem of this difficulty, the video goes on to show many of Dan's attempts.
Dan also reports on the same blog post on other hard Ground-Up climbing and bouldering - it would seem that many shorter Gritstone routes (such as Living in Oxford - originally graded E7) are now better described by highball bouldering grades. Although I wouldn't recommend falling off!
Dan Varian likes hanging off Beastmakers in the hope it'll make him stronger.
This week's Friday Night Video by Vertebrate Publishing features former British alpinist Simon McCartney talking about his... Read more
Seb Bouin has made the first ascent of L'homme demain, 9a/+, in the very steep Ramirole sector at Verdon, France After... Read more
Dan Turner has climbed Bewilderness at Badger's Cove in the Peak District near Buxton. The problem was first... Read more
In spite of the widely variable weather we've been handed over the last year or so - most notably the wild winter storms of... Read more