E8 Ground-Up for Caroline Ciavaldiniby Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor May/2011
This news story has been read 11,229 times
Her first ever trad lead was the Pembroke classic Pleasure Dome (E3), a steep and pumpy route at Stennis Head.
"The climbing was easy and so she could concentrate on spending time to figure out the correct protection. She waltzed along the route, her appearance of complete control only disrupted from time to time when pull-testing gear and a nut would pop out and hit her in the face..." explained James.
She followed that up by attempting to flash Point Blank (E8) in Stennis Ford as her second ever trad route. A large fall ensued and Caroline climbed the route on her second try, ground up.
As far as we know this is the first time a route of E8 has been climbed by a woman without pre-inspection.
James told UKC:
"She was so solid on the route, really made it look like a path, and to make things worse, she was too small to use a good rest in the middle of the crux runout so just had to keep on moving."
You can keep up with Caroline on her website: Caroline Ciavaldini
Britain's Shauna Coxsey managed to secure a second win in a row at the IFSC Boulder World Cup in Kazo, Japan at the weekend, just... Read more
Said Belhaj has repeated Chris Sharma's Paoichulo, 9a+, at Oliana, in Catalunya. This was the Swedish climbers hardest route to... Read more
James McHaffie has added a new E9 6c - House of Talons - to Dinas Cromlech in the Llanberis Pass. The fact that a... Read more
French climber Caroline Ciavaldini ticked the grovelly 'Groove' pitch of The Quarryman E8 7a on Friday, just a few days after... Read more
James Pearson - British ex-pat living in France - has been back in the UK recently and has made an ascent of The Quarryman... Read more