Strawberries Gets Onsighted

by Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor May/2011
This news story has been read 16,481 times

Dutch climber Jorg Verhoeven had a lovely, if slightly blustery, morning climbing a few routes at Craig Bwlch y Moch, Tremadog earlier ths week.

"I climbed One Step in the Clouds (VS), The Weaver (E2), Strawberries (E7) and Cream (E4). It's hard to say which is the best route, it's either The Weaver or One Step. Pulling round on to that slab on One Step was fantastic, such great rock, with all the hidden holds and cracks." commented Jorg.

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+Jorg Verhoeven, Albert Leichfried and Sarah Burmester hanging out at Eric's Cafe, Tremadog, 222 kb
Jorg Verhoeven, Albert Leichfried and Sarah Burmester hanging out at Eric's Cafe, Tremadog
UKC News, May 2011
© Jack Geldard

+Jorg Verhoeven checking his guidebook for more routes after a good morning on Bwlch y Moch!, 106 kb
Jorg Verhoeven checking his guidebook for more routes after a good morning on Bwlch y Moch!
UKC News, May 2011
© Jack Geldard
Jorg climbed Strawberries completely onsight, placing the gear as he climbed. Jorg thought that routes like Ulysses (E6) at Stanage were a tougher challenge than Strawberries, due to the technical and unprotected style.

When told that 'everyone' falls off Strawberries he said:

"It's a great route. I guess people have just been unlucky. I really enjoyed it."

Strawberries (sometimes graded E6, often considered E7) is a tough but safe route taking a striking crackline on the Vector headwall of Craig Bwlch y Moch at Tremadog. It was first climbed by Ron Fawcett back 1980.  The first ascent without pre-placed gear was by Johnny Woodward in 1982 and the first (and until this week only) on sight was by Stefan Glowacz in 1987.

German super-star climber Stefan Glowacz, who was also climbing at Tremadog the morning that Jorg onsighted Strawberries (Glowacz was enjoying the classic route of Vulcan!), responded to the joke that his 'crown' had been taken:

"Time moves on man!" he laughed.

Although Jorg didn't struggle with the route, it has seen off many good climbers over the years and is still awaiting a British onsight. But who will it be? UKC's money is on Steve McClure, mainly because almost everyone else has already fallen off it!


+Stefan Glowacz on the first onsight of Strawberries, Tremadog, 146 kb
Stefan Glowacz on the first onsight of Strawberries, Tremadog
© Uli Wiesmeier, Sep 2008

Jorg, who isn't that well known in the UK, has had a couple of trips to the gritstone over the last few years, but this was his first time in North Wales. Jorg was visiting with the Marmot team (see UKC announcement) and staying at Plas y Brenin. Unfortunately he didn't get the best weather, but did also manage a slightly soggy ascent of T-REX at Gogarth.

Jorg won the overall Lead World Cup back in 2008, has flashed several F8c routes and has climbed Font 8B.

On a previous quick trip to the grit he onsighted Paralogism (E7) at The Roaches, and he has also climbed Shine On (E7) at Stanage.

RELATED VIDEO: Jorg Verhoeven climbing the Mandala Sit Start

 



Jorg Verhoeven is sponsored by Marmot, La Sportiva, Petzl.

You can read more about him on his website: JorgVerhoeven.com


Forums ( Read More... | 32 comments, 22 Jun 2011 )
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