Emma Twyford Flashes 'Statement...' - F8aby Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor Jun/2011
This news story has been read 10,540 times
Emma climbed the route on her first try after her friend placed the quickdraws and showed her some of the moves.
The route, first climbed by Ben Moon in 1984, is widely regarded as being the first F8a in the UK. It took Moon 8 days of effort to succeed on the line and it is a 'tough' 8a.
Emma Twyford has a great weekend on the Ormes
Jon Butters, who accompanied Emma to Wales on a weekend trip from Sheffield, commented:
"Emma set the pace of her weekend, quickly ticking off a few lower grade routes and finishing off the first day dispatching I've been a bad bad boy (F7c) on her first redpoint.
The next day saw much better conditions and as soon as the tide retreated Emma wasted no time onsighting Pink Pinkie (F7a) and Nightglue (F7a+). While trying to decide which hard route to have a go at, Pete Robins (who was working on a newly bolted finish to a route up the centre of the main wall) told her to have a go at one of the best 8as in the country.
"I felt pretty relaxed before setting off and enjoyed the first bit, I felt good traversing left and got a good shake out before going into the undercut sections.
I still felt surprisingly relaxed and when I got to the last bolt I was a little unsure of what I was doing and starting to get a bit pumped in my right arm, I had a quick shake out and asked Jon what I was going for and then made the last couple of hard moves which were a bit touch and go.
I had been unsure as to which route to try but am really glad I got on this as the climbing is way better than it looks, it's a superb classic route and it suited me down to the ground."
LPT is a tidal limestone sea cliff on the Great Orme near Llandudno, North Wales. It is home to several famous routes such as Statement of Youth (8a), Liquid Ambar (8c/+) and the unrepeated Big Bang (9a). The steep wave of orange, grey and black limestone is the best hard sport cliff in Wales, despite tricky coastal conditions and tides.