J-P Oullete makes 2nd ascent of Home on the rangeby Björn Pohl - UKC Jul/2011
This news story has been read 3,321 times
At Vedauwoo, Wyoming, home to many a weird and nasty off-width crack, J.P. Oullete (aka, Pee Wee) has grabbed the second ascent of Justin Edl's Home On The Range, a short but tricky flared crack, given 5.14.
Pee Wee told BD:
Although HTR is only 50 feet long, this little bastard is very hard. It is slightly overhanging, and it aggressively leans right at a 45-degree angle. And it is as flared as the Vedauwoo cracks gets... For this kind of crack, I use a weird sloper-hand-finger-jam combo. It works really well until your foot slips or you grease out of the crack. It's an interesting crack skill to develop, but it can be frustrating, as it doesn't take much to just slip out of the crack... You need a good breeze to make the flarey/sloppy/fingery jams hold.
About the difficulty, he comments that The crux is comparable to a V9 crack but it's pretty easy before and after the crux (as usual I fell/punted a couple times in the easy finish...). When I compare HTR to other hard cracks I've been on, the grade that comes to mind is 5.13+. No matter how hard it is, it's a pretty cool line! Good job finding this little gem Justin!
J-P Oullete is sponsored by Black Diamond
Iain Small has added a left hand finish to his existing route of at Ratho Quarry, Edinburgh. The exisiting line is no... Read more
Seb Bouin has made the first ascent of A muerte bilou in the Ramirole sector in the Verdon Gorge. He suggests... Read more
As reported previously on UKC, wide crack fetish-fiends Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker are over in the USofA and on the hunt for... Read more