VIDEO: Arnaud Petit: Sport Is Now Trad - Ceuse 8bby Björn Pohl - UKC Sep/2011
This news story has been read 15,312 times
This is a video of Arnaud Petit making the first traditional ascent (FTA?) of The Black Bean, 8b, in the Biographie sector at Céüse, France.
It's also the perfect illustration to why it's so much more difficult to climb 8b trad compared to 8b sport, especially so when there are only 9 possible spots for gear in 65 meters, and most of them are dubious.
To call this a traditional ascent is perhaps wrong, as there is nothing traditional about placing cams and nuts in limestone rock...
Be it how it may, this is one of the best short videos I've ever seen!
This week's Friday Night Video is a humourous take on climbing partnerships. Does your belay buddy live up to stereotypical... Read more
In this podcast, I talk with American boulderer Jimmy Webb for an hour or so. The interview was made when we were in Helsinki for... Read more
Last year, Seb Bouin repeated Chilam Balam, ~9a+/b, in the Villanueva del Rosario cave in Andalusia. Now he has been back for... Read more
Sachi Amma has repeated Adam Ondra's Jungle boogie, a pure power endurance 9a+ route just left of Biographie at... Read more
In 2007, Chris Sharma made the first ascent of Three degrees of separation in the Biographie sector at Céüse,... Read more
Last year Jonathan Siegrist repeated Chris Sharma's über classic Biographie, 9a+, at Céüse. In May this... Read more