Bad Bolts on Kalymnos

by Chris Craggs Oct/2011
This news story has been read 11,054 times

French climber and prolific route equipper Bruna Fara, has reported a worrying incident on Kalymnos. His wife Renee Guerin led a recent route on North Cape - Reise (7a) which was put up by the Remy brothers in April this year. As she was lowering off, the tension on the rope pulled the 5th bolt out of the rock. On further examination the bolt was seen to be broken in half (see below).

Close this photo
+Bad Bolts on Kalymnos #1, 169 kb

The bolt was one of a batch produced by Greek company Rocklands. The batch has been recalled but several hundred of the bolts were placed earlier this year - full list of the routes which may be effected is below. All these routes should be avoided until they have been inspected.

NOTE: all the routes were put up this year and none of the routes in the current guide are implicated.

Here's a list of routes where defective Rockland bolts may have been used. It is likely that most of these routes are safe, but until they have been checked and/or replaced, it is strongly recommended that you do NOT climb the routes below.

More on the ClimbKaymnos web site

SECTOR STYX

Circus 7a+, 17 bolts, 35 m,
Ingo 6b, 14 bolts, 25 m
No Exit 6a+, 15 bolts, 45 m
Metro 6a+, 17 bolts, 47 m

SECTOR GREAT CANYON (new sector between Arhi Right and Sea Breeze Left)

Melomakaronas 6c 35 m
Mystic Land 7a 35 m
Plastic Surgery Disaster 7b 32 m
Art in the Air, 7a 34 m
Vromikos 6c, 33 m
Boulderhoelle 6b+, 33 m
Xazouli 6b, 32 m
Xazouli Ext 6c, 38 m
Me Ponaļ 6c, 32 m,
Rock Out 6c, 20 m
Loubis's Angels 6b
Brave a New World 5c+, 16 QD
Divine Comedie 7a,
Sex Pistols 7a
Tzatziki kai Sokolate 7b
Beta Lambda 7b+

SECTOR GREY ZONE (left of Pocket Wall)

Fasolada 6a slab
In Dubio 6a
Falakro 5b+
Saphirniac 6c 38 m
Utopia 6a, 20 m.
Utopia Ext 6c, 36 m

SECTOR ARGINONTA

Bolt-Obsession 4c
BB 5a, 20 m
Takis rare 4a
No Blabla Do It 4b
Mammut Step 4c
Kolhinet Kafhouille 7a Extension of Avri

SECTOR BIG SHADOW

Ratten 7a, 10 bolts, 20 m
Metralos 6a+, 12 bolts, 30 m
Cacou 6a+, 10 bolts, 25 m
Vicking 6a, 12 bolts, 25 m
Directos 6b, 13 bolts, 30 m
Grim 6b, 13 bolts, 30 m
Grim Ext 6c+, 20 bolts, 50 m
Cosi 7a+, 15 bolts, 30 m
Taupe the Rop, 7b, 13 bolts, 28 m

SECTOR NORTH CAPE

Reize 7a, 14 bolts, 25 m
Leone 6a+, 14 bolts, 30 m


Forums ( Read More... | 31 comments, 05 Dec 2011 )
This news story has been read 11,054 times
Return to News from October 2011
Share this article on Facebook
Share this article on Twitter