Guntram Jörg on an unnamed 8B+ at Murgtal
Björn Pohl - UKC, Nov 2011
Guntram Jörg from Vorarlberg, Austria, has been a good boulderer for a long time. By "good" I mean loads of 8A's and 8A+'s all over the world, and by a "long time", given that he is only 23, it's really more like a few years.
This autumn, it would seem something has changed though.
After the Västervik Boulder Meet in late August, GU tagged along with Daniel Woods up to Silvretta where, first Daniel, and then GU, repeated Anam Cara.
In hindsight, this ascent was the turning point, or the switch if you like, because after this he has logged two 8B+'s and about a dozen 8B's. What's perhaps even more remarkable is that most of them has been done in a day.
The latest problem to fall was a new one from Fred Nicole at Murgtal. It's so new, Fred hasn't even decided on a name yet, but GU calls it "The Shield sds" and says it's "the best shield ever". This one must have been tough, because he didn't manage to do it in a day, but first try on the second day. Difficulty? 8B+-ish
So how come he's so much better all of a sudden? Something in the water? New pills?
Do you have any explanation other than that you believe more in yourself after Anam Cara?
Maybe next year, you will climb 8C in a day?
The only explanation I have is, the last few years I have devoted my live to climbing and I think that's the key to climb at your top level.
Yes, that's most likely true. So, what's the plan now? Saty with Daniel, Paul Robinson, Sean McColl and Andy Gullsten in Ticino?
Thanks GU, and good luck with everything!