Ondra climbs The Dagger, 8B+by Björn Pohl - UKC Nov/2011
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Ondra Nevelik, or to be more correct, Ondrej Nevělík has repeated Toni Lamprecht's wrestling fiesta The Dagger, 8B+, at Cresciano.
Ondrej is a 22-year-old from Valtice in the Czech Republic. He is coached by Helena Lipenska, who seems to be doing a good job.
"If I am ever about to climb an 8B+ boulder, it will be The Dagger" I told myself when I was in Ticino for the first time almost four years ago.
This year, while planning the season, I finally felt like it is the right time to give it a try. Luckily I was right! The boulder itself suits my style quite well as I love roof climbing, reachy, core-body tension requiring moves.
The hardest part of completing this boulder was actually finding the right beta as I am taller than Daniel Woods/Sean McColl (who sent it during my first day in Cresciano) and I wasn't able to put my left foot correctly in one of the first moves. In the end I found out "feet-first" is the best way for me. However I was not able to do one long move to a crimp and was getting really desperate as I had been trying the problem for 2 days, had only 2 more days left and still wasn't even able to do all the moves. With a bit of luck on my last try before giving up on Dagger this trip I found a perfect position for a toe hook on the left edge that made the move much much easier and then I sent the whole problem in just 3 tries the next day! :)
Ondrej Nevělík is sponsored by: Rock Pillars and Ocun