Ondra climbs The Dagger, 8B+by Björn Pohl - UKC Nov/2011
This news story has been read 6,030 times
Ondra Nevelik, or to be more correct, Ondrej Nevělík has repeated Toni Lamprecht's wrestling fiesta The Dagger, 8B+, at Cresciano.
Ondrej is a 22-year-old from Valtice in the Czech Republic. He is coached by Helena Lipenska, who seems to be doing a good job.
"If I am ever about to climb an 8B+ boulder, it will be The Dagger" I told myself when I was in Ticino for the first time almost four years ago.
This year, while planning the season, I finally felt like it is the right time to give it a try. Luckily I was right! The boulder itself suits my style quite well as I love roof climbing, reachy, core-body tension requiring moves.
The hardest part of completing this boulder was actually finding the right beta as I am taller than Daniel Woods/Sean McColl (who sent it during my first day in Cresciano) and I wasn't able to put my left foot correctly in one of the first moves. In the end I found out "feet-first" is the best way for me. However I was not able to do one long move to a crimp and was getting really desperate as I had been trying the problem for 2 days, had only 2 more days left and still wasn't even able to do all the moves. With a bit of luck on my last try before giving up on Dagger this trip I found a perfect position for a toe hook on the left edge that made the move much much easier and then I sent the whole problem in just 3 tries the next day! :)
Ondrej Nevělík is sponsored by: Rock Pillars and Ocun
Over the hill? The wrong side of 40? Too many birthdays? Age is often used as an excuse to slow down and pursue less adventurous... Read more
British climbers Matt Burdekin and Tom Ripley have made the first ascent of a new line on the East Face of Aguja Bifida Sur... Read more
Tim Emmett and Slovenian climber Klemen Premrl have established a remarkable new line at Helmcken Falls in Canada, which the pair... Read more
Martin Stránik has repeated The story of two worlds, ~8C, David Graham's sit down start to The Dagger on the... Read more
Giuliano Cameroni, 17, has repeated Fred Nicole's Dreamtime, ~8C, at Cresciano, Switzerland. Giuliano is a Ticino local who... Read more
Samuel Ometz, 19, has repeated Dave Graham's The Story of two worlds, ~8C, at Cresciano, Switzerland. It was quite fitting The... Read more