James Pearson makes 8c+ First Ascentby Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor Dec/2011
This news story has been read 7,289 times
The route, which shares a finish with the existing 8c Progression, is now named Le Blond, la Brute, et le Manouche and James has offered a grade of 8c+.
Commenting to UKC James said:
"The route Le Blond, la Brute, et le Manouche was bolted last year by three friends of mine, Adrien (le blond), Nico (la brute) and Anto (le manouche) but was always too intense.
The route is very bouldery, with the difficulties beginning at the 2nd clip and continuing until the junction with "Progression" (an 8c to the left). The moves themselves are very difficult, and clipping even more so, with the intensity building and building until the crux of the route arrives at strange horizontal collonet in a roof.
From here, a few powerful moves lead to a precarious, run-out clip, from an opposing sloper and heel hook. Fluff the clip and the floor will be uncomfortably close, clip it and you are almost home... just the crux of Progression still to do!"
James was filmed on the route and the footage will be online soon, until then here are two video stills from the ascent:
You can keep up to date with James on his website: www.realbigpimp.in
This week's Friday Night Video by Vertebrate Publishing features former British alpinist Simon McCartney talking about his... Read more
Seb Bouin has made the first ascent of L'homme demain, 9a/+, in the very steep Ramirole sector at Verdon, France After... Read more
French climber Caroline Ciavaldini has free-climbed the Voie Petit 8b on the Grand Capucin on Mont Blanc du Tacul,... Read more
French climber Caroline Ciavaldini ticked the grovelly 'Groove' pitch of The Quarryman E8 7a on Friday, just a few days after... Read more