A couple of days ago, young Czech climber Adam Ondra made the second ascent of Christian Core's ultra hard boulder problem Gioia at Varazze in northern Italy. Gioia is graded a huge Font 8C+.
I asked the Adam Ondra if he had anything to say about his ascent and if he could compare it to his own recent Font 8C+ boulder problem Terranova.
Adam Ondra on Gioia, 8C+, Varazze
Björn Pohl - UKC, Dec 2011
© Michele Francia
Adam Ondra on Gioia - Font 8C+
"Finishing off Gioia the last possible chance of the year is a kind of fairy-tale story which couldn't be more thrilling and emotional.
UKC News, Oct 2009
© Philippe Maurel / Nice-climb.com
The victory tastes even better in that sense and the name the Gioia (Joy) couldn't have been chosen better.
I had always thought that the joy after having done a mere boulder problem could be intense but short, but this may be the longest-lasting joy I have ever had after sending a climb.
The difficulty of the climb is about the same compared to Terranova [Adam's own 8C+, which he made the first ascent of in mid November]. This might fit my style a bit better as it is a specific climbing I am accustomed
to very well.
The hard section in Terranova is a little bit longer, it has 12 hard moves. Gioia has only 8,
so it is more intense and extremely difficult to link.
I think that the climb is 8C+. It has been tried by numerous climbers and except me and Daniel Woods, who managed to do all the moves during his trip to Varazze this spring too, nobody got even close to doing the third move where you have to crimp one of the worst holds imaginable in such an overhang.
The reason why I mustered the audacity to suggest 8C+ even though I might not have enough experience in grades of bouldering, is that all of them are harder than 8C's (I admit I haven't done too many).
Terranova and Gioia took me way more days and it is just a million miles away from all the 8B+'s I
I knew that Adam was heading to the French bouldering Mecca of Fontainebleau, so I suggested he should hook up with the "Welcome to the hood" team that are there filming at the moment, so he could be part of that movie.
"Yes, I am in Font for a couple of days more, but I am here with a filming crew [Alvi Pakarinen] for Black Diamond, so I will not probably be included in that other movie."
Big thanks Adam!
VIDEO: Adam Ondra - Gioia 8C+