VIDEO: 9a's by Ondra and Gelmanov

by Björn Pohl - UKC Mar/2012
This news story has been read 10,309 times

Close this photo
+Rustam Gelmanov on Action Direct, 9a, Waldkopff, Frankenjura, 86 kb
Rustam Gelmanov on Action Direct, 9a, Waldkopff, Frankenjura
Björn Pohl - UKC, Mar 2012
© Anna Piunova/Mountain.ru

Adam Ondra and Rustam Gelmanov have both climbed 9a's lately. For Adam, this is pretty much business as usual, whereas it is more rare for Rustam who is best known as a World Cup boulderer.

What's rather unusual about Adam's ascent is that it was bolted ground up. I don't know if this has ever been done on a 9a, but I doubt it, and it looks epic.
The name of the new route is To tu ještě nebylo and it's located in the Elbe valley in the Czech Republic.

Lately, the young Czech has been spending time working an infamous project at Oliana with Chris Sharma. Cedric Lachat, who is quite a strong climber himself had a play on it and said that, in comparison, Shaxi, 9a+, felt like a warm up. This would mean it's not easy. Or as Adam put it ...the preliminary name speaks for itself - La dura dura...

Video below.

If Adam's route was unusual, I guess Rustam's couldn't be more classic. Wolfgang Güllich's Action direct at Waldkopff in Frankenjura was first climbed more than 20 years ago for first ever of the grade .

This was the Russian's 2nd 9a after Kinematix at Gorges du Loup which he did in 2008.


Adam Ondra is sponsored by: Black Diamond, Montura, La Sportiva, Beal and Hudy Sports

Rustam Gelmanov is sponsored by: Salewa and Red Bull


Forums ( Read More... | 16 comments, 05 Apr 2012 )
This news story has been read 10,309 times
Return to News from March 2012
Share this article on Facebook
Share this article on Twitter