VIDEO: 9a's by Ondra and Gelmanovby Björn Pohl - UKC Mar/2012
This news story has been read 10,884 times
Adam Ondra and Rustam Gelmanov have both climbed 9a's lately. For Adam, this is pretty much business as usual, whereas it is more rare for Rustam who is best known as a World Cup boulderer.
What's rather unusual about Adam's ascent is that it was bolted ground up. I don't know if this has ever been done on a 9a, but I doubt it, and it looks epic.
The name of the new route is To tu jetě nebylo and it's located in the Elbe valley in the Czech Republic.
Lately, the young Czech has been spending time working an infamous project at Oliana with Chris Sharma. Cedric Lachat, who is quite a strong climber himself had a play on it and said that, in comparison, Shaxi, 9a+, felt like a warm up. This would mean it's not easy. Or as Adam put it ...the preliminary name speaks for itself - La dura dura...
If Adam's route was unusual, I guess Rustam's couldn't be more classic. Wolfgang Güllich's Action direct at Waldkopff in Frankenjura was first climbed more than 20 years ago for first ever of the grade .
This was the Russian's 2nd 9a after Kinematix at Gorges du Loup which he did in 2008.
This week's Friday Night Video will please both climbers and mountain bikers. It's a quirky fusion of both activities which will... Read more
Alex Megos has been to Margalef, Spain, where he did Demencia senil, 9a+, second and a half go*, and onsighted Victimes del... Read more
Adam Ondra has made the first ascent of C.R.S., 9b, at Mollans, a project that was bolted by Seb Bouin. Adam needed only three... Read more
The Ledge has just published their 5th podcast, this time with Czech master Adam Ondra. One hour about all kinds of things... Read more
In 2007, Chris Sharma made the first ascent of Three degrees of separation in the Biographie sector at Céüse,... Read more