Pembroke Access Update

by Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor Apr/2012
This news story has been read 5,089 times

Steve Quinton - BMC local access rep for Pembroke - has informed us of some access updates in Pembrokeshire, South Wales.

Pembroke is one of the premier sea cliff destinations of the UK, it's vast array of limestone faces offering excellent traditional climbing in a beautiful setting. However access at Pembroke can be complicated, as part of the climbing lies on military land, and some of the cliffs have seasonal bird nesting restrictions.

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+Alicia on Davy Crocket (HVS 5a), The Castle, Pembroke, Wales, 234 kb
Alicia on Davy Crocket (HVS 5a), The Castle, Pembroke, Wales
© Jamie Moss

Steve said:

"There will be no live firing on Castlemartin Ranges this week, and also from the 14th April to 29th April and from 1st August to 31st August. Routes from Stack Rocks to St. Govan's Head will therefore be open (subject to any nesting season restrictions) on week days and weekends on these dates. There will be a large military exercise again around May/June but dates for this are not finalised as yet."

Steve also gave us some updated information on the bird nesting restrictions for Pembroke:

"The restriction on Mewsford South West face and Devil's Barn have been lifted as no birds have nested this year but there are 2 new restrictions; Bosherston Head - 'Eat, Drink & Beat Gary' to 'Fax Wars' and Trevallen - 'The Energy Funnel' to 'Enter the Goat' plus 'Old dogs, new Tricks'. Climbers in the area of 'Myola' at Huntsman's Leap eastern entrance are also requested to minimise disturbance as these routes are directly opposite the nest site on Bosherston Head.

On the Castle, (landward face) there is a chough nest on the route 'White Knight'. This has resulted in a restriction on this route, 'Ali Baba' to the left, and 'Brother Beyond' just to the right, which is the same as last year."


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