This morning, 25 April, Brett Lowell posted on Facebook, Adam Ondra had basically onsighted a 9a at Oliana. Obviously, this caught my attention, so I asked Adam about it.
Here's what he says:
I did this link-up called Joe-cita [9a] first go. The first part of Joe Blau, before it joins with Gran Blau, which could be hard 8c on itself, was an onsight.
Then it goes left into Marroncita, the second pitch (8b) of which I had already climbed before (about ten meters of relatively easy climbing).
Then you go straight into Marroncita 3rd pitch, which is 8c+ once you climb it from the ground. This part was flash.
In total, most of the ascent was either onsight or flash, just the easy part of Marroncita was red point.
Additionally, I did Duele la realidad 2R, 9a, second go.
I tried to give an onsight shot, but fell off the last hard move of the first pitch (8c+). I lowered myself down and the next day I did it, the second part on sighting.
Anyway, the trip ended up being frustrating, failing to send my ultimate project [the La dura, dura - project] despite weeks of effort this winter. I came quite close the very last day, but the season is over now as the temperature is increasing radically, there is no way of sending it this spring, at least for me. The more I have to wait, the more psyched I will be next winter to finish it off!
So, unfortunately no 9a onsight just yet, though this was undoubtedly the closest anyone has come to onsighting or flashing this grade.
James McHaffie had a productive weekend in North Wales, establishing an Ogwen highball arête named Devil's... Read more
As reported previously, German/Norwegian Thilo Schröter has a good time in Rocklands this summer, with multiple ascents of... Read more
Adam Ondra is now back in Flatanger where he intends to work some of his remaining projects. On his way there he made a couple of... Read more
In April this year, Piotrek Schab, 19, repeated Chris Sharma's Papichulo at Oliana in Catalunya for his first of the... Read more
After having done his final university exams, Adam Ondra took good time in Flatanger cave last week with the first ascent of... Read more