Ondra onsight-redpoint-flashes 9aby Björn Pohl - UKC Apr/2012
This news story has been read 8,981 times
This morning, 25 April, Brett Lowell posted on Facebook, Adam Ondra had basically onsighted a 9a at Oliana. Obviously, this caught my attention, so I asked Adam about it.
Here's what he says:
I did this link-up called Joe-cita [9a] first go. The first part of Joe Blau, before it joins with Gran Blau, which could be hard 8c on itself, was an onsight.
Then it goes left into Marroncita, the second pitch (8b) of which I had already climbed before (about ten meters of relatively easy climbing).
Then you go straight into Marroncita 3rd pitch, which is 8c+ once you climb it from the ground. This part was flash.
In total, most of the ascent was either onsight or flash, just the easy part of Marroncita was red point.
Additionally, I did Duele la realidad 2R, 9a, second go.
I tried to give an onsight shot, but fell off the last hard move of the first pitch (8c+). I lowered myself down and the next day I did it, the second part on sighting.
Anyway, the trip ended up being frustrating, failing to send my ultimate project [the La dura, dura - project] despite weeks of effort this winter. I came quite close the very last day, but the season is over now as the temperature is increasing radically, there is no way of sending it this spring, at least for me. The more I have to wait, the more psyched I will be next winter to finish it off!
So, unfortunately no 9a onsight just yet, though this was undoubtedly the closest anyone has come to onsighting or flashing this grade.
This week's Friday Nighter is from . Here's what they say: "This harrowing expedition pushed a group of... Read more
Hot on Alex Megos' heels, Jakob Schubert has made the 3rd ascent of Adam Ondra's Thor's hammer, 9a+, in the Flatanger... Read more
In 2007, Chris Sharma made the first ascent of Three degrees of separation in the Biographie sector at Céüse,... Read more
The 4th round of the 2015 IFSC Boulder World Cup took place in Haiyang, China this weekend, where Britain's Shauna Coxsey... Read more