Graham makes 3rd ascent of Paint it black, 8Cby Björn Pohl - UKC Apr/2012
This news story has been read 4,360 times
Dave Graham has made the 3rd ascent, after Daniel Woods and Paul Robinson, of Paint it black, 8C, near Bear lake road in the Rocky Mountain National Park, CO.
Paint it black was first done by Daniel 29 February and the 2nd ascent was made only 10 days before Dave's 3rd.
The style can be described as pure roof climbing where body tension and accurate foot placements are vital. Daniel Woods:
The boulder is a giant 65 degree overhanging ships prow, which jolts out of the hillside. There is just enough room for a landing to work the crux moves. If you pitch from the top, you will take a 20 foot fall downhill into the river. There are 5 movements covering 15 feet of near horizontal climbing.
The crux revolves around 2 high tension foot moves to a hard right foot kick over to the right side of the boulder. The first two holds are very slopey with no opposition and the upper holds are two quarter pad incut crimps. It is a good full body power test, along with extreme crimping.
Over the hill? The wrong side of 40? Too many birthdays? Age is often used as an excuse to slow down and pursue less adventurous... Read more
British climbers Matt Burdekin and Tom Ripley have made the first ascent of a new line on the East Face of Aguja Bifida Sur... Read more
Tim Emmett and Slovenian climber Klemen Premrl have established a remarkable new line at Helmcken Falls in Canada, which the pair... Read more
Ned Feehally has made an impressive repeat of The Island 8B+ in Fontainebleau, France. Originally graded 8C by Dave Graham... Read more
Alex Puccio has repeated Don't get too greedy, ~8B and Lost in Space, ~8A+, in the Rocky Mountain National Park,... Read more