Pearson and Ciavaldini repeats Aria, 8a+ EXPOby Björn Pohl - UKC May/2012
This news story has been read 3,453 times
After a very, very long ferry back to the mainland, our time in Sardinia has come to an end, thankfully with a succesful ascent of our biggest project to date.
The big project James is talking about is Pietro Del Pra's, until now, unrepeated multi-pitch Aria on the face of Monte Plumare, Sardinia.
A few days ago, Caro and I made the first repeats of Aria, a 350m EXPO 8a+ on Punta Plumare, directly above the ocean. We had first tried the route a few weeks ago but unfortunately found the crux 8a+ completely wet. With all the rain over the last month, it seemed at times like every colonet on the island was soaking wet and we were not sure if we would have the chance to try again. Luckily, the last week was a little better and we were able to tick the route on one of our few remaining days.
8a+ might not sound cutting edge with only two 8a+ pitches and the rest quite a lot easier but, we mustn't forget the "EXPO" part:
Aria, therefore, in theory, is quite a normal route: 7c / 7a / 6c+ / 6c+ / 6c+ / 8a+ / 8a+ / 7a+ / 7b+ / 7a. 10 pitches, 350m, and seriously overhanging – with just 2 pitches in the 8's, we could do in the day if we fight well... Except that, after further clarification, Aria has a small a-typical side : it can be done with 6 quickdraws!!!!! AAAAAARRRRGGGGG
6 quickdraws, in pitches of 45m, do your calculus – it's at least 7 m between two points! Minimum, I mean, because if the first two spits are a little closer (and I am glad, nothing worse than the climber falling on the belayer), it means of course that the other spits will be spaced more than 7m!
Read the full story on James' blog.
This week's Friday Night Video will please both climbers and mountain bikers. It's a quirky fusion of both activities which will... Read more
UKC Assistant Editor Natalie Berry has hit the mainstream press today following the release of the Hot Aches Productions film... Read more
Dan Turner has climbed Bewilderness at Badger's Cove in the Peak District near Buxton. The problem was first... Read more
Last September French climber Caroline Ciavaldini made the first female ascent of E8 6c - Britain's first route graded... Read more
James Pearson and Caroline Ciavaldini have recently been in the Philippines, where they were involved in their SPOT charity... Read more