La Guerre des nerfs, 9a, by Belhajby Björn Pohl - UKC May/2012
This news story has been read 4,432 times
Said Belhaj, from Sweden, has made what should be the 4th ascent of Pierre Soulé's La Guerre des nerfs, 9a, at La Verrière in France.
According to Said, the route can be described as a hard 8c followed by an 8b/+, with the hardest single move being a big move from a crap left hand pinch, via an intermediate, to a better right hand pinch, where a foot wedged between two tufas pulls you in the wrong direction.
On his third short trip there, he pulled through and did it.
Here's a video from when Gérôme Pouvreau made the 2nd ascent.