Ondra vs Flatanger updateby Björn Pohl - UKC Sep/2012
This news story has been read 14,399 times
The other day, Adam Ondra got really close to making the first ascent of his The Change-project in the Hanshelleren cave, Flatanger, Norway.
Petr Pavlicek, the man behind The wizard's apprentice, tells the story: 2 days ago, after climbing the first 9a+ pitch again (now starting to think again about 9b just for the single first pitch, it is really very very hard, much more than all 9a+'s I have seen him do), Adam got on the link also through the crux of the 2nd pitch, but then really unexpectedly fell from the end of the hard section of the second pitch. If the crimps there were not totally wet, it could be done...
But the northern Gods seem to like us to be here with them, so our fairy-tale mission here continues.
But honestly... In such an amazing place, now so colorful... and totally alone, with many other dry overhanging routes, maybe it is more a reward than a bad luck, at least so far :-)
After his attempt on the ~9b+ project, Adam tried to onsight an old 8c+/9a project to the left. How it went?
Pictures speak louder than words...
Anyway, Adam went back and did it a couple of days later.
Adam now continues to work The Change even though it's wet, trying every trick in the book, including toilet paper, but says the conditions add at least one grade.
To say it would be a incredible achievement to climb a wet ~9b+ would be an understatement...
Tom Livingstone and Tony Stone have climbed Longhope Route (E7 6c) on St Johns Head, Hoy, established by Ed Drummond... Read more
This week's Friday Night Video is something a bit different - a 360° virtual reality film of The Needles... Read more
After having done his final university exams, Adam Ondra took good time in Flatanger cave last week with the first ascent of... Read more
Jakob Schubert and Domen Škofic have repeated one 9a+ each at Flatanger, Norway. Jakob did Kangaroo's Limb while... Read more