Wallstreet - Classic Frankenjura 8c for Stew Watsonby Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor Nov/2012
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The route, well known for being the world's first 8c, was first climbed by Wolfgang Güllich back in 1987.
"One of my Dad's climbing friends gave me a framed poster of Güllich on Wall Street when I was around 12 years old. I had it hanging on my bedroom wall for years. I was always amazed by how Güllich could hold on with just 2 fingers and never thought that I would one day climb the same route.
I tried the route in Summer and was unable to climb it. I couldn't stop thinking about the mythical route and organised a short trip to the Frankenjura with Sabby and my Dad. We met my Dad at Munich airport and drove straight to the Krottenseer Turm. The first day on it was cold and I fell a few times from the last hard move due to frozen fingers. That night it snowed and the route was soaked the next day. We spent the day at the Fight Club bouldering wall in Betzenstein. I had pretty much accepted that I would have to wait until next year when I woke up on Sunday morning to fresh snow. We walked up the crag and the rock was bone dry. Wall Street looked awesome and I was determined to climb it that day. I fell a few times from the top again with numb fingers and waited some time before my last go. My skin was battered but I gave the route everything and topped out in relief.
I'm looking forward to spending some more time in Frankenjura next year."
Top effort Stew! And the photos look stunning.
You can follow Stew on his blog: stewartwatsonclimbing.blogspot.com