"Most Beautiful Unclimbed Line in Patagonia" Climbedby Gentrye Houghton - Rock & Ice Dec/2012
This news story has been read 4,334 times
They climbed Pillar del Sol Naciente (5.12b A1 WI 6 M6) over the course of nine days and placed 15 bolts at belays. The "Pillar of the Rising Sun" is a 3,300 foot line that was first attempted in 1974 by Jose Luis and Rafael Juarez, both of Argentina.
While Eric Shipton nearly gave Cerro Murallón its first ascent in 1961, the actual summit was not reached until ten years after the Argentinian attempt on Pillar del Sol Naciente.
According to PlanetMountain.com, Italian alpinists Cassimiro Ferrari, Carlo Aldè and Paolo Vitali finally reached the peak via Aldè-Ferrari-Vitali (VI 5.10 A2/3, 4,900 feet) on the mountain's North Pillar in 1984.
And yet, nine years went by before the North Pillar received its second ascent in 2003. In November of that year, Germans Stephan Glowacz and Robert Jasper put up a 3,600 foot line deemed The Lost World (V 5.10+ M8). In 2005, Glowacz and Jasper were nominated for the Piolet d'Or; however, the golden ice axe went home with Steve House and Vince Anderson for their climb of Nanga Parbat in Pakistan.
Pillar del Sol Naciente is "the most beautifully striking unclimbed line in all of Patagonia," writes Rolando Garibotti for his web site Pataclimb.com "This line is remote, completely independent and darn hard. It is a truly creative ascent. If there was a line in all of Patagonia that begged to be climbed this was the one."
The GB Climbing team management have announced the Climbing Teams in Junior Lead and Boulder and Senior Lead and Boulder... Read more
La Sportiva Legends Only 2015 at Klättercentret in Stockholm was Slovenian Janja Garnbret's definite breakthrough on the... Read more
Tonight's Friday Night Video from Patagonia and Duct Tape Then Beer productions tells a story made up... Read more
Patagonia is not known for stable conditions and climbers visiting the mountains here speak of the elusive "weather window."... Read more