The Big Island, 8C, by Jan Hojer [UPDATED)by Björn Pohl - UKC Jan/2013
This news story has been read 7,583 times
When I asked him after the former ascent, he said the plan was to go back and try the lower start when it was dry. Guess he didn't get the chance during that trip.
Before this, The Island checked in at #7 on Jan's hardest-problem-regardless-of-grade list, so an educated guess would be that this one makes it into at least the top-5.
Now that you've done both versions, how would you compare them?
I don't think that the additional two moves make a big difference in difficulty. Probably a two move 7A into The Island but it's way cooler to start with a proper stand start...
Alright, so I guess this means my comment that this would make it into your top-5 was wrong?
Hard to compare to Momentum* [~8C], Satan* [i helvete, ~8B], or Off the wagon [~8C]* for example because The Big Island is much more resistant but without any really hard individual move.
*These problems share the #4 position on the list I'm referring to above. More about this and a lot of other similar lists soon(er or later).
Jan Hojer is sponsored by: Mammut and Chimpanzodrome
Britain's Shauna Coxsey managed to secure a second win in a row at the IFSC Boulder World Cup in Kazo, Japan at the weekend, just... Read more
Said Belhaj has repeated Chris Sharma's Paoichulo, 9a+, at Oliana, in Catalunya. This was the Swedish climbers hardest route to... Read more
James McHaffie has added a new E9 6c - House of Talons - to Dinas Cromlech in the Llanberis Pass. The fact that a... Read more
In late February, German climber Markus Jung went to Fontainebleau for a weekend. He used his time time well and managed to... Read more
German climber Jonas Winter has repeated Vincent Pochon's The Big Island, ~8C, at Coquibus Rumont, Fontainebleau. It... Read more