Female Ascent of M14 Mixed Route for Lucie Hrozova

by Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor Feb/2013
This news story has been read 3,137 times

Female Czech climber, Lucie Hrozova, has made an early repeat (possibly the third ascent?), of Robert Jasper's test-piece Iron Man (M14) at Eptingen in Switzerland.

photo
Lucie Hrozova on Spiderman M13
UKC News, Feb 2013
© Lucie Hrozova collection

This is the hardest mixed route climbed by a woman.

Robert Jasper told us about the crag:

"The Eptingen waterfall area is an ice, mixed and drytooling area with no summer sport climbing routes because of the wetness of the rock and its bad quality. For over 20 years it has been used only for ice/mixed climbing just like the famous Ueschenen in Kandersteg (CH) or Vail in Colorado, Ouray (USA) etc."

Check out this video of Robert Jasper on the first ascent:


* Forums ( Read More... | 7 comments, 19 Feb 2013 )
Was chatting to Robert Jasper last month, he mentioned that the waterfall does freeze but not every year, the route can be finished dry or up the icefall, apparentyl the grade isnt really affected either way but its...
maybe_si - 19 Feb 2013

Well, the description on the Vid page states M/D14... so I'm gonna say drytooling. Not that it would prolly be difficult if the water were to freeze. After all, the protection is solely bolts, so wether you're climbing...
HeMa - 19 Feb 2013

Don't know if it really matters, but it seems that mixed routes with big ice sections need a different skill sets to totally dry routes, where just being unbelievably strong is the main thing! If you can climb 8b,...
TobyA - 19 Feb 2013

Is it actually a "mixed" route or rather a pure drytool route? I remember in the vid Jasper does it when the waterfall is very much water, but I don't know if it gets ice on it in normal winter conditions?
TobyA - 19 Feb 2013

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