New Route - Biggest Roof on Grit?by Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor Mar/2013
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The ascent is captured at the end of this video after Jacob's ground up ascent of the E6 New Fi'nial. We liked the speedy footage of the long lip link-up.
"The line links together three existing routes to create a giant lip traverse of the Sloth roof. It starts up "Gilted" a somewhat forgotten E5 6a based around the left lip of the roof. It follows this until you reach a precarious lie down rest in a cave on the lip. From here it reverses the meat of "Loculus Lie" E5 6a to arrive at jugs on the lip of "The Sloth". It then finishes right along "New Fi'nial" E6 6b."
The route was climbed ground up with no top-rope practice or abseil inspection, but not without a bit of a lob (see video!).
Jacob told us:
"I came down at the weekend, onsighted Loculus Lie and ground upped New Fi'nial. Then came back on Wednesday and climbed the line first try, onsighting most of Gilted in the
process. This approach made the whole experience feel a lot more adventurous and exciting."
And gave us his thoughts on the grade:
"It goes at either E6 or E7 6b. It feels a bit mean to give it E6 because you have to climb what is already an E6 at the end, after having already done two E5s. But when it came to it I wasn't that pumped and was able to recover really well on the Sloth jugs, so basically I have no idea. What's cool is that it probably packs in the most roof climbing of any route on grit!"
Jacob is trying to put together an expedition this coming summer to go and attempt some big walls rising out of the sea in western Greenland.
He would like to point people to his:
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