Will Atkinson on the first ascent of Hired Goons - E8 6c
UKC News, May 2013
© Will Atkinson Will Atkinson has made the first ascent of the direct finish to Charlotte Rampling on the gritstone outcrop of Gardoms in the Peak District, naming his new route Hired Goons.
He has estimated a grade of E8 6c for this short but unprotected route that features a long dyno / slap as the finishing move. The original route Charlotte Rampling is a classic E6 first climbed by Johnny Dawes.
Will told UKC:
"I'm absolutely made up to have got the first ascent of such a great route. Hired Goons is the long awaited direct finish to the 1984 Johnny Dawes Classic, Charlotte Rampling, at Gardoms. The direct finish has been a well known project for some time, although it has been top roped clean by two or three climbers in the past it has never been soloed.
It shares the same start as Charlotte Rampling, but where that breaks left towards the arete Hired Goons climbs straight up via a hard move into an undercut, this is followed by a rather serious last move dyno to a hidden pocket just over the lip. Even with pads a fall from the last hard moves would be quite nasty......
I climbed it above 3 pads after practicing it on a rope. I was alone when I climbed it and the conditions weren't great but it all worked out just fine. I've given it a grade of E8 6c, there is no gear, and even with pads it feels a little bit too high to be a boulder problem."
Will Atkinson would like to thank Five Ten and Big Stone for their support.