James McHaffie and Ben Bransby have repeated the Long Hope Route on St John's Head, Hoy, Scotland, making the second free ascent of this long and difficult sandstone trad route.
James visited the area last year in less than perfect conditions, but still managed to redpoint the crux headwall pitch in isolation, but couldn't climb the whole route due to poor weather.
This year he returned and partnered with Ben Bransby, the pair managed a successful lead of the entire route on Saturday the 25th of May. James made very quick work of the crux pitch last year, and this year seems no different.
"I took one fall on the crux reach. I pulled the ropes and did it next try. I'd only been on the crux once the day before, and I could have done with a rest day, but we had a weather window. It's an amazing route, and there are tons of empty crags up here."
More information to come when the guys return from their Scottish road trip.
This might be of interest to some of you folk. The first part of my blog about trying the long hope route on the same trip as Caff and Ben. http://alexmasonclimbing.blogspot.co.uk/ More to follow on monday. Cheers,... Alex Mason - 07 Jun 2013
Thanks Al. It's an amazing place. When I did the Old Man we also took a walk along the top of the cliffs south of Rackwick for a look see. I think the general verdict was loose, birdy and hard - perhaps no surprise... Michael Gordon - 30 May 2013
The Limbo Traverse, The Forever Traverse, The Hairy Traverse. These required some downclimbing but at least I had a rope to follow. I hope at least one of the recent parties did at least the Forever Traverse as that... Oliver Hill - 30 May 2013
I don't know if Mick & I were very lucky in our choice of descent, but it really wasn't that complex. We had no indications of the best way: just went from the bothy to St Johns Head. Looked over: thought we're... Carless - 30 May 2013
As mentioned by others, you access the cliff via a gully North of the route itself. Diff, Lukasz and I went down there with Dave and Andy to shoot some extra bits of footage and some stills, and it's definitely an... Matt Pycroft - 30 May 2013
Apart from St Johns and TOMOH I think there are about 3 or 4 routes in the whole of this picture http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=95138 If you were willing to include a bit of grass scrambling you might... Al Evans - 30 May 2013