Calum Muskett onsighting Authentic Desire, E7 6b, Clogwyn D'ur Arddu
UKC News, Jun 2013
© Ed Booth
Calum Muskett has just added a bold new route to the right of the Craine/Dawes masterpiece Kaya, E6/7 6b, on Glyder Fach Main Cliff, North Wales. Calum has called the new route Sentinel, grading it E8 6c or 7c+ R/X.
Calum headed up to Glyder Fach to further check out a new line he had spotted previously when repeating Kaya, but due to incoming rain only managed a very brief play on the line. He then headed back up with Emma Twyford, who was keen for a go at Kaya.
After a few goes on toprope to sort the moves and gear, Calum thought it would go on lead with a bit of protection trickery. Commenting on his blog on some of the unusual protection methods Calum said:
"The only way I'd be able to protect the crux moves of the route would be with a short sling attached to the first peg of Kaya, taped to the wall at a 45° angle to bring it just about within reach. I was hoping to clip the peg on lead, which would be possible, but would require some very delicate and dangerous moves that I wasn't too psyched for on the day."
Calum then managed to headpoint the line first go, describing the climbing to UKC, he said:
"It's just off vertical and has some sketchy moves through the crux section, the rock is amazingly rough though and you can stand on some really tiny smears and pebbles despite the poor handholds. The intial section is slightly eliminate unfortunately as it would be quite easy to step into the crack at several points, once a committing step left is made the real meat of the route starts, with the intense crux section being protected by the peg on Kaya. The climbing soon eases but remains tricky."
Emma then had a flash attempt at Kaya but fell 3/4 of the way up at a big sidepull when both her feet slipped, a great effort and a sign of things to come from Emma.
You can follow Emma's climbing and coaching on her website.