The Almighty, 8b+/c trad by Siegristby Björn Pohl - UKC Jul/2013
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Jonathan Siegrist, best known as a sport climber with several 9a's under his belt, has made the second ascent of Ty Mack's The Almighty in Teton Canyon, Wyoming.
The route was put up by local Ty Mack a couple of year's ago and a grade of 8b+ (5.14a) was suggested.
Jonathan, being considerably shorter than Ty, needed to use completely different beta:
Colby Frontiero (who'd put in effort on the route) warned me that Ty's beta would never work for me (Ty stands well above 6 foot). Regardless, I was intrigued and stoked to see if I couldn't find a way up it. Once I finally saw the route in person, I knew I needed to climb it. It's nothing short of stunning...I spent 3 days working out the route, rehearsing gear placements and wrapping my mind around how to redpoint this beast.... I was really ambitious to place all of my gear on lead, and thankfully my beta just barely allowed for safe(ish) placement on the go.
After having done the route on top-rope a number of times, fake placing the gear, Jonathan felt ready for the lead and after falling from the third placement once, successfully lead it.
About the difficulty: Ty suggested .14a for The Almighty and I think personally I would suggest .14b for the short person method through the lower and upper cruxes. Because of size we really did climb the route entirely different.
Full story on his blog
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